This week we had the annual pre SIHH Fine Watch Making meeting. Cartier normally pre presents only FWM pieces here, to a small group of International journalists. This time how ever there was an important exception. One model of the main stream collection was presented as a last piece and I fully understand why. What was missing in the mens collection, was a real diver watch. Not a watch that joins the owner during a bit of playing in the pool, but a watch that knows how to behave, deep in the ocean and is able to withstand pressure and salt water. Cartier chose for the Calibre de Cartier line and created the and tell me if I am wrong slimmest diver watch in the world.
This is not a claim by Cartier but just our thoughts.
The case dimension are 42mm and the diver has a height of just 11mm. Pretty flat for a diver watch, when compared to for instance a Rolex Submariner that has a height of 12,5mm, a Rolex Sea-Dweller measures 17,68, a Breguet Marine that measures 12,25mm or a Panerai Luminor Marina that is 16,8 mm thick. The back of the case is closed and has a tasteful simple engraving.
The bezel is self lubricating and unidirectional, steel coated with ADLC, a material that is harder than steel. Important fact; the bezel runs very smooth with an amazing sexy sound. Cartier did a nice job in getting that right. Let’s face it; some divers sound horrible when the bezel is turned. The crystal is sapphire and is 1.2mm thicker than the regular ‘Calibre de Cartier’ model, to make sure it can withstand the water resistance of 300m, which is the same as the Submariner and better than the 100 m water resistance of Panerai models in the same price category.
Then we come to to overal looks of the watch. The Diver is available in all steel, steel with a touch of gold and all gold. All three models are fitted with a cool and very supple rubber strap with an ardillon buckle.
Later in the year, around September 2014, the steel gold and the all steel model will be available on bracelet as well. As shown in the pictures the dial is black, partially snailed with XII in super luminova and the sword-shaped hands are covered with with super luminova as well.
Quite important deep in the water. Same sounds for the ‘Sub seconds at 6′, normally it is just a nice complication, for the owner of the Diver it indicates constantly that the watch still runs well.
The movement of the Calibre de Cartier Diver is the 1904 MC, Cartier’s own automatic caliber that was first used in 2010. This caliber now powers the Calibre de Cartier watch, the Tank Anglaise, Tank MC and is the base movement for high end complications. Specifications: Total diameter: 25.6 mm Thickness: 4 mm, number of jewels: 27 balance: 28, 800 vibrations / hour Power reserve: 48 hours.
I am very enthusiastic about this Diver, not only about the specs, but also about the way it sits on the wrist, with that great rubber strap and I am are looking forward to hearing your opinion.
Pricing: Euro 5500.- for the W710056 steel on rubber strap version, Euro 7150.- for the W710055 steel/gold model on rubber strap, Euro 19000.- for the W710052 pink gold model.